Gray-Haired Globetrotter

When I snorkeled to the Blue Hole in the lagoon near the Pacific Treehouse Lodge, I was crippled with foot, calf and shin cramps so bad that I couldn’t even put on my reef shoes because my foot was so contorted. I asked if I could hire a masseuse and learned that the usual person was out on maternity leave.  Selak, who had picked us up at the airport overheard my complaints and  he offered to call someone from his village on the other side of the island. A couple hours later, two women show up! They had unusual materials, a plastic bag with leaves, a small plastic bottle and a small bucket that has been chilled and inside had very woody shreds of plant material that turned the water brown. Then the woman on the left who is a healer/local medicine woman said a substantial prayer where I only understood two words towards the end “Jesus” and “Amen”. Kosrae had been ruled by a monarchy until the missionaries arrived and now is very strongly Christian.  Then she began to tear ...